How To Repair A Sprinkler Valve

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How to Repair a Irrigation Solenoid Valve

When a solenoid valve (also called an electric valve or automated sprinkler valve) fails to shut information technology is almost always considering something is stuck inside it. This might be a grain of sand, a modest twig, a insect, or fifty-fifty a tiny snail. To set up the valve y'all need to disassemble and make clean it. When a valve fails to open it is commonly due to a bad solenoid or bad wiring, although in rare cases a grain of sand stuck inside the valve or a ripped diaphragm inside the valve. The post-obit teaching tell how to disassemble, make clean, and inspect the automatic valve.

To clean the valve:
As y'all disassemble the valve be sure to note how all the parts fit together so you can get it back together correctly! I strongly suggest you make a sketch and take notes. Each brand and model of valve is slightly unlike. The valve shown in the photos here is an anti-siphon type valve, which is a blazon commonly used on home sprinkler systems. The cap structure on the correct side of this valve is the anti-siphon device.

Anti-Siphon Solenoid Valve
Typical Anti-Siphon Blazon Solenoid Valve

Remove the solenoid from the valve. Most solenoids unscrew counter-clockwise to remove. When removing the solenoid sentinel that the bound loaded plunger inside it does not pop-out and fall into a mud puddle. On most newer valves the plunger is held "captive" and then it won't fall out when the solenoid is removed, but sometimes fifty-fifty those ones come up loose. Once the solenoid is removed, push in on the terminate of the bound-loaded plunger in the solenoid. It should leap gently back out when released, and information technology should slide in and out smoothly when pressed several times in a row. If the plunger doesn't motility easily and smoothly, supervene upon the solenoid; it is damaged and tin't exist repaired. Do not apply any oil or lubricant to the solenoid plunger, if information technology is sticking it is not repairable, supercede information technology.

Solenoid Removed, Showing Plunger

Remove the valve lid, almost are held in place past several metallic screws. Some models of valve have lids that screw off like the top of a jar, turn counter-clockwise (lefty losey) to remove this blazon of lid. You lot may need to use a strap wrench to remove the jar-top style lids. All valves have a spring under the lid, don't permit it fall out into the mud! Remove the leap and set it bated.

Valve Lid Screws

Removing Valve Lid Screws

Spring Under Lid
Watch that the Spring Does Not Fall Out When Removing the Hat

Await for the tiny passages, chosen "ports", inside the valve lid. These ports lead from the lesser of the lid to the area where the solenoid was attached. The exact location of the ports varies with each valve brand and model. Make sure these passages are not clogged with a grain of sand or whatever. Be conscientious yous do not scratch or enlarge these passages when trying to become the sand out! Do not try to drill out these ports to make clean them or brand them larger.

Ports in Lid

Remove the rubber diaphragm from the valve. Make sure it is non croaky or broken, if information technology is supervene upon it. Some valve models also accept a port in the diaphragm, check to see if in that location is 1, if so make certain it is clean. On some valves the port in the diaphragm has a metal pin that runs through it, the purpose of the pivot is to keep the port clean. The pin should slide freely in the port. The diaphragm in the photo beneath has a separate, removable seat gasket attached to the bottom of it with a spiral. On many valves the condom seat gasket and the diaphragm are ane piece and the seat gasket is not removable. Make sure the seat gasket or diaphragm seat does not have anything stuck on it, like a grain of sand or twig. If the gasket surface is scratched or torn replace the gasket or diaphragm.

Examine the valve seat in the bottom of the valve body. The seat is the office of the valve torso that the gasket presses against to stop the h2o flow through the valve. Brand sure the seat is not scratched or pitted, if it is the valve volition leak when closed. On some valves the seat is replaceable. On some brass valves the seat tin can exist ground down with a special tool to remove pits and scratches. Even so, for almost valves if the seat is scratched or pitted, the valve is not repairable and must be replaced.

Rubber Diaphragm and Gasket
Safety Diaphragm and Gasket

With the valve disassembled plow on the water to flush whatever remaining sand and crud from the pipes upstream of the valve. Plow it on total nail, and run it for a minute or ii, you need to get everything out of that pipage. Turn off the water, and dry out yourself off. I know yous don't want to get wet, but don't skip flushing the pipes and valve body, this is an important step!

Carefully clean everything, then reassemble the valve. Some valves take a separate lid gasket or o-band that needs to be cleaned or replaced earlier existence reassembled. If there are any o-rings, I strongly suggest y'all lubricate them earlier reassembling using Chiliad-Y Jelly or a similar production. Lubricating o-rings is optional, only recommended equally it keeps them from crimping during assembly. If the o-ring crimps it volition be ruined and will leak. K-Y Jelly is a water-based lubricant that you buy in the feminine hygiene department of a supermarket or drug store. (Don't ask for it at the hardware store unless you lot want to requite the employees a good express mirth at your expense. Yes, I admit I savage for this back when I was first starting out in this business, it'south a favorite plumber gag to send the new guy out to purchase the Grand-Y Jelly!) Practise not use vaseline, silicone, oil or any petroleum based products on the valve, they may harm the seals and also may clog the ports in the valve.

Use KY-Jelly to lubricate rubber parts of the valve
Apply K-Y Jelly to Lubricate Safety Parts of the Valve
Do Not Use Petroleum-Based Products!

When attaching the hat, avoid striping out the hat threads and warping the hat as follows: When inserting the screws that concord the cap on, first with one of the screws next to the solenoid. Insert the screw in the pigsty and so turn it counter-clockwise (losey lefty) until y'all feel a slight click every bit the screw finds the threads. Then opposite direction (righty tighty) and lightly tighten it. Then insert the 2nd screw on the opposite side of the valve lid. Like the starting time, find the threads then just lightly tighten the screw. Continue with one screw on one side and the side by side on the other until they are all in. Now go back and tighten them all, going in the same guild yous inserted them. Exercise not over-tighten the screws on plastic valves, you lot volition strip out the threads.

If you're blessed and didn't mess up something the valve should work correctly now.

Suggestion: Your valve has already failed once, chances are that ways something in the water got stuck in information technology, which means there is sand or whatever in the water supply. Consider installing a filter upstream of the valve to continue out the sand and crud in the future. Typically the cost of a valve repair is greater than the cost of installing a filter. See the Irrigation Water Filtration Tutorial.